Yunnan Province, China

All images and associated pages copyrighted © by Don Chesnut, 2007

Geologic information from field trip guidebook...

Wang Xiangdon, Sugiyama, Tetsuo, Cao Cao, and Li Yijun, 2007, Peri-Gondwanan Carboniferous to Permian sequences in the Baoshan Block, West Yunnan--Faunal, Climatic, and Geographic Changes. XVI International Congress on the Carboniferous and Permian, Nanjing, China June 21-24, Janjing Institute of Geology and Palaeontology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, 45 pp.

24 June 2007 Sunday

...We flew to Chengdu and got to our hotel by 10:30. We had a beer and went to bed.

25 June 2007 Monday

We got our wake-up call at 5:30. I took a quick shower and then took my luggage to the lobby. At 6, the bus took us to the airport. We flew to Kunming then waited awhile at a cafe at the airport. After an hour or so, we got on the plane to Baoshan. About 5 4-wheel-drive vehicles picked us up and took us to the Landu Hotel in Baoshan. Once again, I have a room to myself. At 12:30, we had a lunch buffet at the hotel. Afterwards, many of us had to go to the bank to change enough money to pay for our internal flights in China. I owed 2100 Yuan for 4 flights. I hadn't changed enough money previously. One of the leaders is Tetsuo Sugiyama from Japan. He says that he has vivid memories of me getting acupuncture while on the bus in Guizhou province in 1987. I told him I had vivid memories of it too.

After the ordeal at the bank, Johnny Waters, Gary and Beverly Webster, and Matthew Clapham and I walked to a temple on the side of the mountain nearby, about 3 quarters of a km away.

After that, we walked through the market place and I took an assortment of interesting pictures.

We got back to the hotel about 6 in time for yet another large buffet dinner at 6:30. I seem to always be stuffed. I paid my money to the field trip leader and then went to my room. I wrote a bit in my diary, took a shower and then went to bed about 9 pm. The weather here is very pleasant so far. The temperature is about 75 degrees F, but somewhat humid. There is a nice breeze and it occasionally sprinkled.

26 June 2007 Tuesday

I got up about 6:30, took a shower and went to breakfast in the hotel buffet restaurant. We then boarded the SUVs and drove to Lutucun village about an hour away. The day was beautiful. We saw many terraces and I took lots of pictures.

We stopped and walked across a field to examine Early Mississippian limestones. The field contained corn, chilies, beans, and tobacco. Gary Webster, Johnny Waters and I were looking for crinoids. Gary found a partial calyx.

At lunch, we drove to another village for a big meal. We had fresh carp and many other things. One of the Poles said I looked like Robin Williams and then everyone agreed. I told them that I thought I looked like Johnny Depp or Brad Pitt and they all laughed.

After lunch, we drove back to Lutucun village and climbed the hillside to look at Viséan (mid Mississippian) limestones. A fault separated these from Permian diamictites or conglomerates.

After coming back down the hill, we saw Mrs. Sevenapoulis talking to a young girl with a crowd around them. I got closer and saw that the girl was practicing English. She was 14-years old. We all helped her practice. She was about to start her two-hour walk to her boarding school. We ended up driving her back to school on our way back to the hotel. Johnny Waters gave her 300 Yuan so that she could buy a bicycle to make her trips easier. She only visited home every two weeks.

When we got back to the hotel, I took another shower. We met at 6:30 and drove to a goat-soup restaurant in Baoshan. Each table sat about 8 people and it had a propane burner built into the center of the table. A large bowl of soup was put in the middle and we added items to the pot. The main ingredient was goat meat, including the intestines, etc. It was surprisingly tasty. I also had grilled goat liver and other bits that I couldn't identify. I got my shoes polished while I ate, for 1 Yuan.

After the meal we drove back to the hotel about 9 pm. I wrote in my journal, watched HBO and went to bed at 10:15. There is no internet computer that I can use.

27 June 2007 Wednesday

I got up about 6:30, showered and went to breakfast. I always get the Chinese breakfast, but many of my colleagues go for the Western one. I dropped my laundry off at the main desk.

We made three stops in the morning and mid-day in Youwang, looking at the Devonian and Mississippian section, Viséan limestones and Permian strata. Pennsylvanian strata are absent in this region. Lowermost Permian had glacial dropstones because this block was part of Gondwanaland in the Paleozoic and was in the high latitudes in the south. We collected crinoid plates from Permian strata higher up the hill. I took a picture of basalt pillow lavas overlying the strata. We saw a dead pig in a pit with lime on it and a lady carrying another small dead pig to the pit. The pigs had died of swine flu or something like it. We had planned to have lunch in the local village but cancelled it because of the outbreak of swine flu. We are also cancelling the afternoon stops in the area for the same reason. In fact, we left in a hurry. We saw 2 more dead pigs on the way out of town.

Instead, we went to Baoshan for a late lunch. We left the outcrops at 1:20. The road back was paved all the way. In the field we were very close to Burma. I took one photo of a mountain purported to be the border. The temperature in the heat of day with bright sun was probably in the mid 90's. We didn't have shade today.

When we got back to Baoshan, we walked to a bakery and went upstairs to a nice little restaurant. We ordered off the menu and we all shared, as usual.

After lunch, about 3:30, they announced that dinner would be at 7. I went to my room and found that my laundry was back. I had three shirts laundered and pressed for 54 Yuan plus 8 Yuan service charge (about $2 apiece). I went down to the coffee bar to write in my journal and had a Lan Cang Jiang beer (this is the Lan Can River, the same as the Mekong). There must be 6 different beers of this brand, judging by the different labels, but I don't know what the difference is.

The drivers took us to a nice courtyard where we had another banquet. It was a fish restaurant specializing in carp. We also had many other styles of food as well. One was like a small enchilada except they took the skim of day-old milk, dried it and rolled some bean paste into it. It was then fried. It tasted a little like butter with sweet bean paste.

After dinner, I went back to the room, watched a little TV and went to bed.

28 June 2007 Thursday

I got up about 6:30, took a shower, and went to breakfast. I had Chinese breakfast, hard boiled egg and sweet instant coffee, as usual. We met in the lobby and drove to the field, this time to the south. We drove up a mountain near Bingma and parked at a Buddhist nunnery. We then walked up the mountain to see a series of exposures. I took many photographs. The scenery was excellent. According to GPS unit, we had climbed up to 2000 meters elevation (I don't know the elevation for the nunnery). I was talking to Hans George Herbig about my field mapping in the Bavarian Alps in 1972. He couldn't believe it, because he was a field assistant to Prof. Liedholz from the Frei Universitat Berlin who led the field trip. Hans was there much later, still, it was quite a coincidence. He told me he would contact Dr. Liedholz and tell him he met me. I asked him to give Prof. Liedholz my warmest regards.

After our field studies, we walked back down to the Woniusi nunnery where we had a fantastic vegetarian meal. At the end, the nuns brought out freshly baked bread; one was white bread, the other date bread. It was all very good.

We then rode down the mountain, stopping at one arkosic sandstone outcrop, where we had a group picture taken.

We then went back to Baoshan for a free afternoon. I walked with four others to the market area again, they wanted to buy some Burmese jade. After they made their purchases, we walked to the food and animal part of the market, and then the hardware area. Hans George Herbig bought a chicken feather duster. We walked back through the Baoshan old town and I took some pictures.

After our walk back to the hotel, we all met again for dinner. The drivers took us to a Dai (Thai) restaurant where we had another banquet. Once again the food was excellent. I said hello in Thai, but the lady didn't respond; I assume that she didn't speak Thai. We had an assortment of food including pig skin (cracklings), carp, fern, greens and many other dishes.

I got back to the hotel and watched HBO till about 10 while writing in my journal.

29 June 2007 Friday

I got up at 7, took a shower and went to the usual breakfast buffet, including rice congee. At 9, several of us were taken to the main post office where I filled out numerous forms to mail my poster tube and congress pack with congress field guides, abstract volume and other literature. The total cost for shipping was 260 Yuan. We spent 1 hour, 40 minutes getting it all done, but I'm glad to get rid of all of it. Now I have only carry on luggage.

At 11 am we met at the hotel for lunch (after we all checked out). It was the usual bountiful buffet. After lunch, we were driven to the Baoshan airport. After security, I noticed a wall of black and white photos of General Joseph Stillwell, Mao Tse Tung, Chiang Kai Shek and Madame Chiang Kai Shek. There were several pictures of the Flying Tigers, Stillwell's Burma Road (Ledo) and other WWII photos. The Burma Road went through Baoshan.

We caught our flight to Kunming and then boarded a nice coach to the famous Stone Forest, about 2 hours away. The Stone Forest was accepted yesterday as a World Heritage site. The unfortunate trade-off is that the Yi minority people who live within the park boundary must be moved away within one year. We checked into our hotel in the park and then met our walking guide, a Yi minority person who had grown up in what is now the park. The Stone Forest is made up of karst limestone pinnacles, 10 to 20 meters high. It is unusual scenery. The limestone is Middle Permian in age. I took lots of photos.

We went back to the hotel by 6:45 and met for dinner in the 2nd floor restaurant at 7. We had two large round tables for our group and another group also had two large tables. The food was entirely different and local in origin and very good.

The other group was very interesting; one fellow would get up and sing a song and the others would "gan bei." Then another person or group of people would stand up and sing another song. They were very beautiful songs. The field trip leader told us he had never seen this before and that these were special Yunnan minority and Tibetan songs. We all clapped after the songs and they all smiled. I went over to their table and asked if I could take their picture, which I did. I started something apparently. A fellow came up to me with a glass of rice whiskey and snag a song in my honor, ending in a "gan bei." Then they insisted that I respond with a song too. I was in a diplomatic corner. I said OK and then stood at their table and sang "Chicken in the Bread Tray," ending it with a Rebel Yell and a "gan bei." That broke the ice and several songs were sung by both groups in honor of the other. It turned out to be a very special evening that could have ended much differently. Several people congratulated me for, perhaps, being brave to sing badly.

I sat in a common area outside my room to write in my journal and several of my colleagues joined me for awhile before we went to bed. I went to my room and killed several mosquitoes. Judging from the bathroom walls, other people had killed mosquitoes there before me. I'm glad I've been taking my anti-malarial medicine. The bathroom mat is still wet from the person who had the room before me. There is no fan or air conditioning and I am hoping the night will cool down. This is one of the hotels that will have to close down within the year because of the World Heritage status. I noticed that there is a mosquito coil and electric heater for it. I may try to use them. I also noticed squashed mosquitoes on the walls of the rest of my room.

While Baoshan was on a Gondwanan or peri-Gondwanan block, this part of Yunnan was on the South China block.

30 June 2007 Saturday

The mosquitoes didn't bother me last night; I must have killed them all. I got up at 7:30, took a shower and had breakfast at 8. I have not seen much in the way of souvenirs (that I would want) in the areas of China I have visited. These regions are geared for Chinese tourists only. I did manage to find a CD of Yi music at the Stone Forest. We boarded the bus at 9 and headed to Kunming.

Several of us were dropped off at the airport. I had the first flight out. I had Yunnan coffee and at 11:30 went through Chinese customs. I checked in at the counter and didn't have any luggage to check. I spent all the rest of my Chinese money on a gift for Mary. I didn't give enough money but they sold it to me for what I had. I boarded the plane at 1:30 and sat next to a Chinese fellow from Beijing who spoke English. He worked for a Chinese wireless telecom company and was traveling to Laos for business. He had lived in Canada and California. We talked for the entire flight which was 1 hours 50 minutes...

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